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Grower's Bible

 

Click on the Video links below

Video #1 -"Building you GrowRoom"

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Video #2-"Vegetative Grow Room"

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Video #3-"Building the Flowering Room"

aka-"Where the Magic Happens"...

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Video #4-"Maximizing you Crop"

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Video #5-"Choosing your Nutrients"

You know...Making those babies Blossom...Yummieee...

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Video #6-"Cloning 101"

This Means-"No More Males"---All Buds Baby

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Video #7-"

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Video #8-"

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Video #9-"

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Growing Pot from Home

Video #1

Video #2

Video #3



HOW TO GROW MARIJUANA OUTDOORS

Contrary to popular belief, marijuana grows well in many place on the North American continent. It will flourish even if the temperature does not raise above 75 degrees.

Its takes work but grow weed the correct way and the harvest will be splendid.

The marijuana plants do need a minimum of eight hours of sunlight per day and should be planted in late April/early May, BUT DEFINITELY, after the last frost of the year.

Growing marijuana outdoors, or au natural, crop has been the favoured method over the years, because grass seems to grow better without as much attention when in its natural habitat.

Of course, an outdoors setting requires special precautions not encountered with an indoors crop; you must be able to avoid detection, both from law enforcement freaks and common freaks, both of whom will take your weed and probably use it.

Of course, one will also arrest you. You must also have access to the area to prepare the soil and harvest the crop. There are two schools of thought about starting the seeds.

One says you should start the seedlings for about ten days in an indoor starter box. The other says plant them in the ground. That is a choice you will have to make.

The plants should be planted at least three feet apart, getting too greedy and stacking them too close will result in stunted plants. The plants like some water during their growing season, BUT not too much. This is especially true around the roots, as too much water will rot the root system.

Grass grows well in corn or hops, and these plants will help provide some camouflage. It does not grow well with rye, spinach, or pepperweed. It is probably a good idea to plant in many small, broken patches, as people tend to notice patterns.

General Growing Info

Both the male and he female plant produce THC resin, although the male is not as strong as the female. In a good crop, the male will still be plenty smokeable and should not be thrown away under any circumstances.

Marijuana can reach a height of twenty feet (or would you rather wish on a star) and obtain a diameter of 4 1/2 inches. If normal, it has a sex ratio of about 1:1, but this can be altered in several ways.

The male plant dies in the 12th week of growing, the female will live another 3 - 5 weeks to produce her younguns. Females can weigh twice as much as males when they are mature.

Marijuana soil should compact when you squeeze it, but should also break apart with a small pressure and absorb water well.

A nice test for either indoor or outdoor growing is to add a bunch of worms to the soil, if they live and hang around, it is good soil, but if they don't, well, change it. Worms also help keep the soil loose enough for the plants to grow well.

Seeds

To get good grass, you should start with the right marijuana seeds. A nice starting point is to save the seeds form the best batch you have consumed.

The seeds should be virile, that is, they should not be grey and shrivelled up, but green, meaty, and healthy in appearance.

A nice test is to drop the seeds on a hot frying pan. If they CRACK, they are probably good for planting purposes.

The seeds should be soaked in distilled water overnight before planting. BE SURE to plant in the ground with the pointy end UP. Plant about 1/2 inch deep. Healthy seeds will sprout in about five days.

Sprouting

The best all around sprouting method is probably to make a sprouting box (as sold in nurseries) with a slated bottom or use paper cups with holes punched in the bottoms. The sprouting soil should be a mixture of humus, soil, and five sand with a bit of organic fertilizer and water mixed in about one week before planting.

To get some good extra information check out these marijuana pictures, refer to the germinating marijuana seeds page

When ready to transplant, you must be sure and leave a ball of soil around the roots of each plant. This whole ball is dropped into a baseball-sized hold in the permanent soil.

If you are growing marijuana indoors, you should use a green safe light (purchased at nurseries) during the transplanting operation. If you are transplanting outdoors, you should time it about two hours before sunset to avoid damage to the plant. Always wear cotton gloves when handling the young plants.

After the plants are set in the hole, you should water them. It is also a good idea to use a commercial transplant chemical (also purchased at nurseries) to help then overcome the shock.

Harvesting And Drying

The male plants will be taller and have about five green or yellow sepals, which will split open to fertilize the female plant with pollen. The female plant is shorter and has a small pistillate flower, which really doesn't look like a flower at all but rather a small bunch of leaves in a cluster.

If you don't want any seeds, just good dope, you should pick the males before they shed their pollen as the female will use some of her resin to make the seeds. Alternatively choose feminized marijuana seeds to begin with and you won't get any male plants. feminized seeds produce all female plants because they have been pre treated with a special substance.

After another three to five weeks, after the males are gone, the females will begin to wither and die (from loneliness?), this is the time to pick. In some nefarious Middle Eastern countries, farmers reportedly put their beehives next to fields of marijuana. The little devils collect the grass pollen for their honey, which is supposed to contain a fair dosage of THC.

The honey is then enjoyed by conventional methods or made into ambrosia. If you want seeds - let the males shed his pollen then pick him. Let the female go another month and pick her.

To cure the plants, they must be dried. On large crops, this is accomplished by constructing a drying box or drying room. You must have a heat source (such as an electric heater) which will make the box/room each 130 degrees.

The box/room must be ventilated to carry off the water-vapor-laden air and replace it with fresh. A good box can be constructed from an orange crate with fiberglass insulated walls, vents in the tops, and screen shelves to hold the leaves. There must be a baffle between the leaves and the heat source.

A quick cure for smaller amounts is to: cut the plant at the soil level and wrap it in a cloth so as not to loose any leaves. Take out any seeds by hand and store.

Place all the leaves on a cookie sheet or aluminium foil and put them in the middle shelf of the oven, which is set on broil. In a few seconds, the leaves will smoke and curl up, stir them around and give another ten seconds before you take them out.

Now these are some quality buds

Increasing THC Content

There are several tricks to increase the number of females, or the THC content of plants:

You can make the plants mature in 36 days if you are in a hurry, by cutting back on the light to about 14 hours, but the plants will not be as big. You should gradually shorten the light cycle until you reach fourteen hours.

You can stop any watering as the plants begin to bake the resin rise to the flowers. This will increase the resin a bit.

You can use a sunlamp on the plants as they begin to develop flower stalks.

To use the colchicine, you should prepare your pre-soaking solution of distilled water with about 0.10 per cent colchicine. This will cause many of the seeds to die and not germinate, but the ones that do come up will be polyploid plants.

This is the accepted difference between such strains as gold and normal grass, and yours will DEFINITELY be superweed.

The problem here is that colchicine is a poison in larger quantities and may be poisonous in the first generation of plants. Bill Frake, author of CONNOISSEUR'S HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA runs a very complete colchicine treatment down and warns against smoking the first generation plants (all succeeding generations will also be polyploid) because of this poisonous quality.

However, the Medical Index shows colchicine being given in very small quantities to people for treatment if various ailments. Although these quantities are small, they would appear to be larger than any you could receive form smoking a seed-treated plant.

It would be a good idea to buy a copy of CONNOISSEUR'S, if you are planning to attempt this, and read Mr. Drake's complete instructions.

Another still-experimental process to increase the resin it to pinch off the leaf tips as soon as they appear from the time the plant is in the seedling stage on through its entire life-span.

This produces a distorted, wrecked looking plant which would be very difficulty to recognize as marijuana. Of course, there is less substance to this plant, but such wrecked creatures have been known to produce so much resin that it crystallizes a strong hash all over the surface of the plant - might be wise to try it on a plant or two and see what happens.

Plant Problems

Always check the overall environmental conditions prior to passing judgment - soil around 7 pH or slightly less - plenty of water, light, fresh air, loose soil, no water standing in pools.

SYMPTOM PROBABLE CURE

Larger leaves turning Nitrogen deficiency

yellow - smaller leaves -add nitrate of soda

still green. or organic fertilizer.

Older leaves will curl phosphphorous deficiency -

at edges, turn dark, add commercial phosphte.

possibly with a purple

cast.

Mature leaves develop Magnesium deficiency -

a yellowish cast add commercial fertilizer

to least veinal areas. with magnesium content

Mature leaves turn Potassium deficiency -

yellow and then add muriate of potash.

become spotted

with edge areas

turning dark gray.

Cracked stems, no Boron deficiency -

healthy support tissue. add any plant food

containing boron.

Small wrinkled Zink deficiency - add

leaves with commercial plant food

yellowish vein systems. containing zink.

Young leaves become Molybedum deficiency -

deformed, possibly use any plant food with a

yellowing. bit of molydbenum in it.



Turn Bad Weed Into Good Weed

Can you turn bad weed into good weed? Surprisingly enough, the answer to this oft-asked inquiry is, yes! Like most other things in life, the amount of good you are going to do relates directly to how much effort you are going to put into it.

1. Take a quantity of grass and dampen it, place in a baggie or another socially acceptable container, and store it in a dark, dampish place for a couple of weeks (burying it also seems to work). The grass will develop a mold which tastes a bit harsh, a and burns a tiny bit funny, but does increase the potency.

2. Expose the grass to the high intensity light of a sunlamp for a full day or so. Personally, I don't feel that this is worth the effort, but if you just spent $400 of your friend's money for this brick of super-Colombian, right-from-the-President's-personal-stash, and it turns out to be Missouri weed, and you're packing your bags to leave town before the people arrive for their shares, well, you might at least try it. Can't hurt.

3. Take the undesirable portions of our stash (stems, seeds, weak weed, worms, etc.) and place them in a covered pot, with enough rubbing alcohol to cover everything.

Now CAREFULLY boil the mixture on an ELECTRIC stove or lab burner. DO NOT USE GAS - the alcohol is too flammable. After 45 minutes of heat, remove the pot and strain the solids out, SAVING THE ALCOHOL.

Now, repeat the process with the same residuals, but fresh alcohol. When the second boil is over, remove the solids again, combine the two quantities of alcohol and re-boil until you have a syrupy mixture.

Now, this syrupy mixture will contain much of the THC formerly hidden in the stems and such. One simply takes this syrup the thoroughly combines it with the grass that one wishes to improve upon.

How to Grow Marijuana Indoors

Growing weed indoors has many advantages, besides the apparent fact that it is much harder to have your crop found, you can control the ambient conditions just exactly as you want them and get a guaranteed good plant.

Feminized marijuana seeds are an excellent choice when considering growing pot indoors.

Plants grown indoors will not appear the same as their outdoor cousins. They will be scrawnier appearing with a weak stems and may even require you to tie them to a growing post to remain upright, BUT THEY WILL HAVE AS MUCH OR MORE RESIN!

Get expert tips on growing premium indoor marijuana.

About Hydroponics

Hydroponics is the name given for a variety of techniques for growing weed without soil. It was realised by researchers into plant metabolism that plants took in their nutrients as simple inorganic ions, and that soil, while a source for such nutrients, was not essential. While a plant's nutrients come from the soil, the only nutrients a plant can successfully absorb are those that dissolve into the plant's water supply. When the required nutrients are introduced into a plant's water supply artificially, soil is no longer required for the plant to thrive.(see hydroponics for more info.)

Nutrient Film Technique (NFT)

In this method, the plants grow through light-proof plastic films placed over shallow, gently sloping channels. A steady flow of nutrients is maintained along the channel, and the roots grow into dense mats, with a thin film of nutrient passing over them (hence the name of the technique). A downside of the technique is that it has very little buffering against interruptions in the flow eg power outages, but overall, it is probably one of the more productive techniques.

Basic Kit to Grow Indoors

Simple Pot and NFT Set Ups

You don`t need a lot of kit to start growing great flowering plants in a cupboard, wardrobe, attic or grow space. Apart from the plants the lamp is the most important thing. There are two types used for growing light hungry plants. Metal Halide (MH) or High Pressure Sodium (HPS). HPS lamps used with horizontal reflectors (shades) produce the most usable light per watt of electricity and flowering plants love the light they produce. A 600 watt HPS lamp will light about 1 square meter of growing space. All the kit listed below can be found at a grow shop near you.

Basic Kit to Grow in Pots

1. High Pressure Sodium Lamp (600 watt is the most efficient but a 400 watt may suit a smaller space).

2. Fan running 24 hours a day if possible and oscillating.

3. Pots, trays and chosen growing medium. 50% potting compost 50% Perlite is a basic mix. Raise the pots in the trays with bricks or bits of wood so they don`t sit in a puddle when watered.

4. 24 hour timer to control light periods. This should be used with a high power switch known as a contactor or relay switch as grow lamps can easily burn out regular timers used on their own.

5. A pH tester to test water and nutrient feed solutions.

6. pH adjuster such as phosphoric acid to adjust water and feed solution to around pH 6.0 - 7.0.

7. Nutrients, ones aimed at growing the plant you want to cultivate are best.

8. Matt white paint or white plastic to cover the walls of the grow space.

Also useful are a measuring bucket, measuring jug, large syringe and pea netting or string to support top heavy plants. If you can afford it a great help is a Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) meter. These allow you to check the nutrient levels of feeding solutions to make sure they are optimised for your plants.

Growing hydroponically in a Nutrient Film Technique (NFT) Tank is really simple and not something to be afraid of. In fact some beginners to growing may find it easier than using soil mixtures in pots. You do not have to judge if the plants need watering or feeding so much using NFT, as long as you follow the simple instructions supplied with the tanks the plants should look after themselves.

Basic Kit to Grow in NFT Tanks

1. High Pressure Sodium Lamp (600 watt is the most efficient but a 400 watt may suit a smaller space).

2. Fan running 24 hours a day if possible and oscillating.

3. NFT tank with pump and spreader mat (these come with the tank), Rockwool cubes.

4. 24 hour timer to control light periods. This should be used with a high power switch known as a contactor or relay switch as grow lamps can easily burn out regular timers used on their own.

5. A pH tester to test water and nutrient feed solutions.

6. pH adjuster such as phosphoric acid to adjust water and feed solution to around pH 5.2 - 6.0.

7. Nutrients, ones aimed at growing the plant you want to cultivate are best.

8. Matt white paint or white plastic to cover the walls of the grow space.

Also useful is a measuring bucket, measuring jug, large syringe and pea netting or string to support top heavy plants. If you can afford it a great help is a Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) meter. These allow you to check the nutrient levels of feeding solutions to make sure they are optimised for your plants.

Also...

Wherever you decide to set up your grow space remember that the plants night time or dark period is very important. Check that when the light goes off the grow space is in total darkness. Proper ventilation for the grow space should also be considered as the area can become very humid. Opening up the space daily may be enough but larger areas may need extactor fans to avoid problems. Please visit Legalize Marijuana and show your support for the cause

Hydroponic Marijuana Guide

This is a complete guide to growing marijuana hydroponically (indoors). This guide is meant only to be used in areas where growing marijuana is legal.

Growing Hydroponics Marijuana Introduction

Expect to pay about $500.00 for a light, hydroponic marijuana setup and everything else you will need to raise your crop hydroponically. You can spend more or less than that, but $500.00 is the average initial setup price for a personal garden (5 to 10 plants). Once you get things set up you can continue to raise new crops with your set up and only have to spend money on nutrients, bulbs, and other maintenance.

After a few crops (you will make mistakes at the beginning), your product will be better (if the seeds you used were good) than anything that you would normally buy, at a fraction of the cost.

If you do things properly, you will get about 1 to 2 ounces of premium tops per plant every 3 to 4 months. You won't have to deal with people that you might not trust, and your stash will be clean and healthy as can be.

Hydroponic Marijuana Set Up

All growing described on this page is done using the Ebb and Flow system. The Ebb and Flow system is one of, if not the most popular hydroponic methods for growing weed. It is simple and easy to use.

It works like this: A reservoir containing nutrient solution is located below a growing tray. The tray contains the plants that are in containers with growing medium like rockwool.

The growing bed is filled with nutrient solution by a small pump on a timer to feed and water the plants. The timer then shuts the pump off and the nutrient solution drains freely back into the reservoir.

Ebb and Flow systems' are favored because of their low maintenance, high productivity, and ease of use. Ideal not only for the beginner, but for the advanced gardener as well.

Most, if not all the information presented can be adapted to work with other forms of hydroponic systems. For a description of hydroponic system types, check this page.

If you are going to be growing hydroponic marijuana, you need a hydroponic garden. You can make one yourself by using instructions you can find here. They are not hard to make and almost any building supply store should have the majority of stuff required.

If you would rather buy a unit, it may cost a little more but all parts will be included and you will save time by getting everything at once. I got an 11 plant unit for $150.00. US. You can probably find something just as good or better for less money on eBay.

If you use eBay or any other source that might leave a paper trail, you might want to have someone else order and have the items shipped to a house other than where the growing will take place. Be safe, even in areas where weed is tolerated or legal now, it may not be that way in the future. So don't leave a trail back to yourself.

Marijuana Growing Seeds Or Clones

If you know someone who grows, ask them for a few clones. If you don't have access to clones you will have to get seeds. If you don't already have some, you can ask you friends to save you seeds out of any good weed they may come across.

The better the weed that the seeds come from is, the better your crop will be. If the weed the seeds came from was no good, your crop will probably not be any better.

If you need seeds, you can get some online. You can search on one of the search engines listed here. Use the term marijuana seeds or something similar.

Try to find someone that ships their marijuana seeds from the country you live in. That way, your package does not cross international borders and is less likely to be searched.

When buying seeds, don't get the overpriced, exotic ones. Look for moderately priced, hardy ones like skunk. For a descriptions of marijuana strains click here.

Starting Marijuana Clones

Take your marijuana clone and put it in the grow cup. Surround the clone with enough media to keep it stationary in its holder. See the next section for further information on media and placing your seed in the holder.

Germinate The Marijuana Seeds

Set up your hydroponic garden before you germinate the seeds. Make sure everything works fine. If you are using clones, skip this section unless you need further information on media and placing your seed in the holder.

Follow the directions located here to germinate your cannabis seeds. After the seeds have germinated and the root is about a quarter of an inch long, place the seed, root down, on your grow cube or media that is in your hydroponic cups.

The standard thing to do is use a rockwool cube to start the seed on and surround it with whatever media you use. Keep the rockwool cube so that the bottom 70% or so is submerged when the water is at max, but keep the top part above the water so that the seed is never submerged.

There are various types of media available to grow in. Rockwool is one, but there are many others. Media simply means the substance that the roots grow in. Since you aren't using soil in a hydroponic garden, you need a substitute.

The media will provide no nutrition, it is just a support for the roots. All nutrition comes from the hydroponic solution. Do some online searching or refer to whatever book you have about hydroponics if you want to learn more about media used for hydroponic purposes.

Vegetative Marijuana Growth

The first phase of marijuana growth is called the vegetative phase.

If you plan on using the mh or hps right away, start with the light about 20 inches or more above the top of the plant and lower the light an inch or so daily until you think the height is right. Too close and the plants will dry and turn brown. Too far and the plants grow too tall as they stretch to get closer to their light source.

You can also start the vegetative phase with a fluorescent light turned on for 18 to 24 hours a day for the first one or two weeks or longer. You can use a standard 48 inch fluorescent fixture (with two) 40 watt bulbs placed about 2 to 8 inches above the tops of the plants.

3 to 5 inches is ideal, but you might have to raise the light a bit higher so all the plants get some light, depending on your setup. Mix your hydroponic nutrient solution to 50% of the normal recommended strength for the first two weeks of growth regardless of lighting.

The reason for starting off with fluorescent lighting is to not give the plants too much light at the beginning of the growing process. Let them build up to it as they would in nature where the seeds would germinate in spring when the sun is not as strong as it will be in summer.

An alternative to growing under hps or mh during vegetation is to set up a vegetative area, and a flowering area.

The vegetative area would use a cloner or something similar that would allow seeds or clones to grow and two standard 48 inch fluorescent tubes, turned on 24 hours a day.

You can build a very good cloner yourself with the instructions found at overgrow and sometimes you can find a cloner at eBay. They range in price from $15.00 to $100.00 but are not always available.

The flowering area would use a standard hydroponic set up with hps and/or mh fixtures turned on for 12 hours a day.

While the flowering plants are going through their cycle with the hydroponic set up, the germinated seeds or clones will have a few months to develop in the cloner. After the flowering plants have been harvested, the plants in the vegetative area are ready to move to the flowering area. New seedlings or clones can then be started in the cloner.

There are two main benefits to this kind of set up. Electricity use will be about 25% to 35% less because the mh or hps light is only on 12 hours a day. The longer a plant has been growing in the vegetative phase, the quicker it will flower.

The only drawback I have found is the extra area needed to set up two different grow areas. Since the flowering plants need absolute darkness during the dark phase, the light from the vegetative area can't reach the flowering plants. So they need to be isolated, either by using curtains (or something similar) or by being located away from each other.

Start Growing Hydroponic Marijuana

Try to keep the mh or hps light about 12 or more inches above the tops of the plants. If the parts of the plants closest to the light dry out, raise the height of the light source, they are too close. If the plants are too far from the light they will stretch and be tall but not have much bud. That is a waste of space. Start high and lower the light an inch or two daily until you think the height is right.

During the first stage of growth, the vegetative stage, keep the light on 16 to 24 hours a day minimum. The longer it is on, the faster the plants will grow, but the higher you electricity bill will be.

Marijuana Flowering

Flowering is the phase of marijuana growth that produces the most THC (the active ingredient that produces the high). Once flowering begins, the height of the plants will taper off as the plant energy is used in the flowering process itself.

You can start flowering when the plants are a minimum of about 6 inches high and have at least 4 sets of leaves. This will take 2 weeks to a month of vegetative growth in most hydroponic gardens. When you want to start flowering, cut the light back to 12-13 hours a day.

The height of the plant will continue to increase for about two to four weeks after flowering has been started, after that all the plants energy will be used for flower production.

Limiting the height of a marijuana plant has always been a difficult task for me, so I just raise the height of the light as the plant grows. There are methods of limiting the height of a plant, but none of them have worked for me, so I'm not going to recommend one, the Marijuana Growers Guide has the most comprehensive descriptions I have seen on limiting the height of weed plants.

The flowering cycle lasts about two months, sometimes a little longer, depending on the type of seed. So the total length of time to raise a crop should be 3 to 4 months in a hydroponic garden.

During flowering the dark period must be perfectly dark. No room light, sun light, or any other light should reach the plant in the 12 hours of darkness that the plant must get everyday. The strongest light that should reach the plant during flowering would equal that of moonlight.

Stronger light than this will delay flowering, and if it continues there is a chance that the plant will not flower, but stay in the vegetative phase.

This is more important in the fist 6 weeks of flowering. When the plants have started to flower for over a month, small amounts of light for short periods of time are not as harmful.

You will know the plants are flowering when you see what look like little white hairs developing at bud sites. They should be visible after about two weeks of the flowering light cycle. These will eventually be the red hairs that you see on good bud that you have probably smoked in the past or are smoking now.

Nutrients

Plant foods are measured in an N-P-K format.

N is Nitrogen

P is Phosphorus

K is Potassium

A 15-15-15 solution contains 15% Nitrogen, 15% Phosphorus, 15% Potassium. A 20-10-5 solution contains 20% Nitrogen, 10% Phosphorus, 5% Potassium. The percentage of the solution not used by N-P-K is trace elements and inert material.

If you are buying hydroponic nutrient, get the powder kind that mixes with water. It is much cheaper over the long run when you compare it with already mixed solutions.

An all purpose hydroponic nutrient solution with secondary elements like calcium, sulphur and magnesium and trace elements boron, copper, molybdenum, zinc, iron, and manganese will get you through all stages of growth.

But depending on the stage of growth, you can adjust different nutrient levels needed at different times to optimize growth.

Higher amounts of N are needed when the temperature will be below 80 degrees in the grow room during vegetative growth. 20-20-20, or 23-19-17, or 12-6-6, or something similar, with trace elements should do it.

If temperatures are higher than 80 degrees in the grow room, you need not worry about more N in the formula during vegetative growth.

During flowering the plant needs lots of P, regardless of temperature. 15-30-15, or 5-20-10, or 2-4-3, or something similar, with trace elements should do it.

Do not over fertilize your plants. Too much fertilizer will kill your plants. If you under fertilize, plants will take longer to grow but will not die. Follow the mixing instructions on your hydroponic solution package, if you aren't sure, use less rather than more.

As water evaporates an is absorbed by the plants, your water reservoir level will drop. Add tap water that has been aged 3 days or longer to the reservoir. I don't add nutrient solution when I top up the tank, some people do.

Change the nutrient solution every 2 weeks. That is, discard the old solution and clean out the reservoir, pumps, and other equipment that is used with HOT WATER. After cleaning, add tap water that has been aged 3 days or longer to the reservoir then add nutrient solution. You only need to clean the cups and tubing the plants are in before you start a new crop.

The old solution that you are discarding can be used to water house or garden plants. This will at least double the growth rate if you usually water your plants with regular tap water.

Marijuana Nutrient Cycle

The timer that starts to pump the nutrient solution should turn on and the solution should submerge the plants roots every twenty minutes. As soon as the roots are submerged, the pump can shut down.

If it takes longer than 20 minutes for the roots to get water, the roots will usually grow long, And they can grow very long looking for the nutrient solution source.

In fact they can grow so long and thick that they prevent the solution from reaching all the way up your grow cups. This will also raise the chance of root material being ripped out and clogging the system. Once the flow is clogged by root or other material inside, you will have to take the garden apart and clean it.

Check the root length every few weeks. If it is hard to remove the cups the plants are in because the roots are anchored to the internal channel, the roots are too long. The root should be short enough to not touch the narrow point where the solution enters the cup holder. If they are too long, trim them down with scissors. Make sure they are not going too far, but don't cut unnecessarily.

Harvesting And Curing

Follow the harvesting directions located here and follow the curing directions here

Eliminating Smell

Growing (and smoking) marijuana will produce odors. Sometimes they can be strong enough to attract attention. If you would like to eliminate the smell from growing and/or smoking marijuana the best thing to do is build an ozone generator.

Storing Marijuana

If your weed is going to be stored for more than a year it should be wrapped in an air tight container and be stored somewhere that is dark and cool. A freezer is best, but a fridge, basement, closet, or something similar will do. Dry it first if you grow your own, or if the stuff you have is very moist. And remember that light, air and heat are the things to avoid.

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